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I did install the sleeve, and I'm glad I did. The builder told me I didn't need one, but I took your advice instead and it worked out great. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown. Cut those studs as needed so that their edges are flush with those of your outline.
The exterior portion of the wall should still be present at this stage. Cut your 2 x 4s so that they fit lengthwise into your wall opening. Nail those pieces together and fit the resulting rectangle into your hole. Fix it to your studs as much as possible using screws. You should be able to see clean through to the inside of your home at this point. Your wall AC unit installation manual should include some instructions for fixing the bracket in place, either with screws or some other method.
Once the sleeve is in place, insert the air conditioner itself. Before you call it a day, however, you need to properly seal off all gaps in the opening. Fill particularly large gaps with drywall. Optionally, use paint to touch up any surrounding areas that may have gotten damaged.
You did it! You should strongly consider contacting a professional at this point to have them review your work. If you live in the Phoenix area, learn about our services here.
Alternatively, if these instructions have left you feeling skeptical about your abilities to get the job done, reach out to your local HVAC company and have them complete the install. Any competent professional should know how to install an air conditioner in the wall. Check out this post for some tips on choosing a suitable service company. Window and through the wall air conditioners are generally not interchangeable.
After limping along with an under-powered portable AC unit for our 2-car 22' x 30' garage shop, we finally decided that it was time for an upgrade. This unit both heats and cools and comes with a WiFi adapter which makes it possible to control with their smartphone app. There are also several sizes available for those with smaller or larger rooms.
Before we went down the DIY road, we did get a quote from a local HVAC installer for a slightly more efficient unit, but after seeing that it would cost over three times the price of the this unit, we decided that it was worth installing one ourselves.
And since we purchased this unit ourselves and have no affiliation with MRCOOL , we'll try to cover both its pros and cons. The heat pump came in two boxes. The larger box is for the outdoor condenser unit which is usually placed on a small pad or installed on an exterior wall using a mounting bracket and then wired to a dedicated V or V circuit depending on the size of the unit.
In this box was the drain line extension, a plastic pipe, and a set of rubber pads to sit the unit on. There was also some neoprene putty and an Allen wrench. The second box contains the indoor unit which is mounted to an interior wall. Connected to it is a set of refrigerant lines and a power line that are run through a hole in the wall down to the outdoor unit. There's also a small drain line connected to it that carries off any condensation from the indoor unit.
The indoor unit box contains the user manual, filters, the remote control, a drain connector for the condenser, and the Wi-Fi adapter.
It also contains a cardboard template for the mounting plate with the location of the hole that must be cut in the wall. I carefully removed the indoor unit with the attached line set from the box. After removing the zip ties holding the lines together, I then removed the metal mounting bracket from the back of the unit and uncoiled some of the lines being careful not to kink them.
I very gently bent the lines so that they exited the back of the unit where the hole will be located. The shorter tube is the drain line and it needs to exit underneath the line set so that any condensation can easily drain outside. Next I leveled and taped the template to the wall of our shop and pre-drilled holes on two stud locations.
I also went ahead and drilled a pilot hole where the hole for the line set would go before attaching the mounting bracket to the wall with a pair of cabinet screws. It was then time for the most stressful part of the installation -- cutting a large hole through the wall! I started by drilling a hole through the interior wall using a 3. Once I drilled through the interior wall, I cut a small hole in the insulation and continued drilling through the exterior sheathing which also made a pilot hole in the siding.
Since we have fiber cement siding I decided to finish cutting it from the outside to avoid any damage. This actually ended up working better than I expected using the hole saw and the end result turned out pretty nice.
With the hole finished, I then completed attaching the mounting bracket with the remaining screws, and it was finally time to mount the indoor unit on the wall. To keep from kinking the roughly 25 feet of line, my wife helped feed it through the hole from the inside while a friend of ours helped from the outside. The important thing to remember is that the drain line must be on the bottom when the lines are fed through. The unit then just hooks onto the top of the bracket and snaps down onto the bottom.
We did waste a little time here second guessing ourselves just because the wall wasn't perfectly flat, but other than that, the mounting was pretty easy!
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